Where to stay in Amed

A string of quiet black-sand fishing bays on the far east coast — Bali's diving and snorkelling capital, with a shipwreck at nearby Tulamben and a slow, low-key pace.

Amed is not one village but a string of small black-sand bays along the far north-east coast — Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang and others — each a few minutes from the next on a single coast road. Jemeluk has the most restaurants and the bay everyone snorkels; the further east you go, the quieter and cheaper it becomes.

It suits divers and snorkellers before anything else. The reef is a few strokes off the beach, the Liberty wreck at Tulamben is half an hour north, and the visibility is reliable. It suits sunbathers less, because the beaches are steep volcanic pebble rather than sand, and anyone wanting nightlife not at all.

Mornings are calm and clear and the wind usually gets up in the afternoon, so dive and snorkel early.

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