Places to see in Amed

The dry mountain behind Amed, walked before dawn for sunrise over the strait towards Lombok.

The summit temple of the Lempuyang complex, reached by around 1,700 forest steps. A serious climb rather than a photo stop.

The bay Amed is built around: black sand, moored outriggers and a coral wall a short swim from shore.

Quiet dark-sand bay east of Amed edged with coral and fishing jukung, with snorkelling straight off the sand.

Hillside temple in the Lempuyang complex whose split gate frames Mount Agung — the "Gates of Heaven". Come at dawn or queue.

Restaurant high on the headland above Amed, looking back over the bays and across to Lombok on a clear evening.

Restaurant and bar at the freediving school on Amed's shore, open to anyone and busy with divers after the afternoon sessions.

A small WWII-era wreck lying in shallow water off Banyuning, close enough to shore to reach on a snorkel.

Ridge lookout above Amed built for the view of Mount Agung, clearest in the hour after sunrise before cloud closes in.

French kitchen in Amed — fish, pasta and crêpes, an odd but long-standing fixture on this stretch of coast.

Beachfront restaurant on the Amed coast road, looking across the strait to Lombok. Fresh fish and a long sunset.

Café in Amed's salt-farming village, named for the trade — simple food, and a window onto how the salt is still panned by hand.

Balinese warung on the Amed coast road, cooking the local repertoire properly rather than for tourists.

Roadside warung in Amed open from morning to late, serving Indonesian plates to the dive crowd.