Where to stay in Sidemen

A tranquil rice-terrace valley in the east, under Mount Agung — homestays, weaving villages and the Bali of a generation ago, with barely a crowd in sight.

Sidemen is a valley rather than a village: a road running along a ridge east of Ubud with rice terraces dropping away on both sides and Agung filling the view north on a clear morning. Accommodation is strung along that ridge, from family homestays to a handful of quiet retreats, and almost all of it is chosen for the view.

It suits people who want the Bali that existed before the south filled up, walkers, and anyone content to eat where they sleep. It suits anyone wanting choice much less: there are few restaurants, fewer shops, and the nearest real town is a drive.

Weaving is the local trade and the workshops will show you the looms without much ceremony. Amlapura, Tirta Gangga and the east coast are all within an hour, which makes this a better base for that side of the island than it first looks.

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