Places to see in Bali

Coastal temple built hard against the cliff on the north-west road, home to a large troop of macaques.

Roastery and coffee bar on Sriwedari that put Indonesian single-origins on Ubud's map. Breakfast, and the town's best flat white.

Highland café at Baturiti built around the local strawberry farms — shakes, pancakes and a stretch of legs on the drive north.

Ridge-top viewpoint overlooking both Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan, with photo swings and cafés.

Former royal palace in the heart of Ubud, host to evening traditional dance performances.

Buddhist temple on the ridge above Nusa Dua, with a wide view over the bay.

Ubud's best-known suckling pig warung, opposite the palace. One dish, served from late morning until it runs out — go early.

Tiny Gootama Street warung doing Balinese small plates for a few dollars — order several and share.

Village warung on the Sidemen road, open early through to evening. Indonesian home cooking at village prices.

Backpacker warung off Poppies serving Indonesian staples at Indonesian prices, open from breakfast until late.

Roadside warung in Amed open from morning to late, serving Indonesian plates to the dive crowd.

Vegetarian warung on Sugriwa serving a daily changing plate at local prices — the cheap, good, unfussy lunch.

Point on the headland where swell funnels into a rock channel and bursts vertically over the walkway.

Clifftop temple above Geger beach, looking back along the Nusa Dua coast.

Dark little espresso bar down a lane off Kayu Aya, roasting its own beans. Coffee first, food second.

Nasi campur warung on Batu Bolong — point at what you want behind the glass. A local lunch on a street that has few left.

One dish since 1941 — fried fish, fish-head soup and rice, served fast to a permanent queue at the north end of the beach road.

Circular cliff-ringed cove with a natural rock archway open to the sea, right next to Angel's Billabong.

Rolling green hills on Penida's eastern side, named for their shape. A roadside stop on the way to Atuh.

A house dug by hand down into the limestone, tunnelled out room by room over years by a local priest.

Quiet village lookout across terraced rice fields toward Mount Agung, favoured by painters for decades.

Smoothie-bowl counter near Batu Bolong — a surfers' breakfast stop rather than a sit-down restaurant.

Roadside institution in Kedewatan serving one plate of shredded chicken, rice and sate lilit. A stop on the way north, not a destination dinner.

Small sea temple perched on a rock outcrop at the south end of Batu Bolong beach.

One of Bali's nine directional temples, a working sea temple north of central Seminyak.

Bamboo tree-house viewpoint over Diamond and Atuh beaches, popular for the elevated photo angle.

Roadside viewpoint over Buyan and Tamblingan, the two crater lakes divided by a single forested ridge. Clearest early, before the cloud closes in.

Chinese Buddhist temple in the middle of Kuta, well over two centuries old and still the centre of the town's Chinese-Balinese community. Open daily until evening.

14th-century relief carvings cut into a 25m cliff face, a quiet alternative to Goa Gajah nearby.

The memorial on Jalan Legian to those killed in the 2002 bombings, carrying every name and nationality.