Restaurant in Bali

Tasting-menu restaurant built entirely on Indonesian produce, the one Ubud table people book a trip around. Reservations weeks ahead.

Dessert tasting menu in a garden north of Ubud — a full evening built around nine courses of sweets and cocktails. Booking only.

Hillside restaurant above Lovina with its own kitchen garden and a view down to the Java Sea. Tasting menus; booking essential.

Clifftop restaurant and pool on Penida's west coast, above the Crystal Bay side — the sunset stop after a day at Kelingking.

Seafood grill on Jimbaran bay, the same sand-table formula as its neighbours and usually a little quieter.

Terraced restaurant and wine bar stepping down the Campuhan gorge beside the old suspension bridge — the sunset table in Ubud.

Balinese rijsttafel in Tanjung Benoa from the cookbook author who documented the island's home cooking. The set menu is the way in.

Garden restaurant doing small plates and cocktails from Balinese produce, inland from the bay. A tasting dinner, not a beach one.

Garden restaurant and pool in central Ubud, open from breakfast, with day passes if you want the water.

Long-running seafood restaurant on Jimbaran beach, at the northern end where the row of grills begins.

Two-storey Italian beach restaurant beside Petitenget temple, looking straight down the sand. The long-standing sunset booking.

Rooftop restaurant above Legian with a Southeast Asian menu and a view down the coast. Sunset seats need booking.

Loud, technicolour Mexican cantina off Petitenget that turns into a dance floor after dark. Tacos and margaritas, not a quiet dinner.

Coffee-plantation resort above Munduk whose restaurant and infinity pool sit level with the cloud. Lunch here is the excuse for the view.

Restaurant high on the headland above Amed, looking back over the bays and across to Lombok on a clear evening.

Wood-fired restaurant on Batu Bolong doing whole roasted meats and vegetables — Canggu's proper dinner rather than another brunch.

Grilled-seafood shack on Jimbaran bay with tables straight onto the sand — pick your fish by weight, eat it at sunset.

Modern Indonesian cooking under a soaring concrete-and-glass roof on Petitenget — the area's grown-up dinner.

Japanese–Latin cooking on a valley edge in Sayan, a short drive west of the centre. Dinner with a view down the Ayung.

Seafood restaurant at Tanjung Benoa, the local alternative to eating inside a resort.

The crispy duck institution, served in pavilions over a rice paddy south of the centre. Touristy and worth it once.

Restaurant and bar at the freediving school on Amed's shore, open to anyone and busy with divers after the afternoon sessions.

Restaurant built out over Lake Batur at Kedisan, eaten at water level looking back up at the caldera wall rather than down from it.

Beachfront seafood at Pererenan, tables on the sand and a Greek lean to the menu.

Modern Indonesian cooking in a colonial-style house on Jalan Sriwedari — the easier, walk-in half of the same kitchen lineage as Locavore.

Restaurant on the ridge above the Campuhan valley, with a long view across it. Best an hour before sunset.

Open-sided joglo pavilion set among the rice terraces, the closest thing Sidemen has to a destination restaurant.

French kitchen in Amed — fish, pasta and crêpes, an odd but long-standing fixture on this stretch of coast.

German kitchen on Jalan Legian serving around the clock, with its own beers brewed on Bali. A Kuta fixture for decades.

Restaurant and bar on the cliff road near the temple, looking down the coast — the closest proper dinner to the kecak performance.