Warung in Bali

Bamboo pavilion in the rice fields east of Lovina serving Balinese set menus, with cooking classes run from the same kitchen.

Balinese rijsttafel and grilled dishes on Jalan Raya Pengosekan, south of the centre — a warung in name, a proper sit-down dinner in practice.

Grilled pork ribs and lethal martinis, off a smoky charcoal grill. Loud, cheap and consistently packed.

Six-table home kitchen off Petitenget where the owner cooks everything herself. Ring ahead; it fills on reputation alone.

Warung whose name means "look at the rice field", which is the whole proposition — simple Indonesian plates over the Sidemen valley.

The 1969 original that taught Bali to cook for visitors — nasi campur and Indonesian classics, still open late on Jalan Raya Seminyak.

Small Gootama Street kitchen cooking Indonesian and South-East Asian dishes to order. Busy from opening; expect a short wait.

Balinese warung on the Amed coast road, cooking the local repertoire properly rather than for tourists.

Roadside warung on Munduk's main street with a balcony over the valley — Balinese plates, and the village's default lunch.

Family warung on the Sidemen valley road cooking Balinese dishes to order, with the terraces below the terrace.

Warung down at lake level in Kedisan, serving the freshwater fish farmed in Batur itself — grilled whole, with rice and sambal.

Ubud's best-known suckling pig warung, opposite the palace. One dish, served from late morning until it runs out — go early.

Tiny Gootama Street warung doing Balinese small plates for a few dollars — order several and share.

Village warung on the Sidemen road, open early through to evening. Indonesian home cooking at village prices.

Backpacker warung off Poppies serving Indonesian staples at Indonesian prices, open from breakfast until late.

Roadside warung in Amed open from morning to late, serving Indonesian plates to the dive crowd.

Vegetarian warung on Sugriwa serving a daily changing plate at local prices — the cheap, good, unfussy lunch.

Nasi campur warung on Batu Bolong — point at what you want behind the glass. A local lunch on a street that has few left.

One dish since 1941 — fried fish, fish-head soup and rice, served fast to a permanent queue at the north end of the beach road.

Roadside institution in Kedewatan serving one plate of shredded chicken, rice and sate lilit. A stop on the way north, not a destination dinner.