Restaurant in Bali

Plant-based kitchen in a bamboo pavilion with its own permaculture garden, west of the centre in Sayan.

Rim restaurant looking straight across at Gunung Batur, on the road most sunrise tours come back down.

Beachfront restaurant on the Amed coast road, looking across the strait to Lombok. Fresh fish and a long sunset.

Hillside resort restaurant above the valley, open to non-guests — the dinner option in Sidemen when the warungs have shut.

Vegetarian restaurant on the Penestanan ridge with a wide view over the Campuhan valley. Best at sunset.

Plant-based restaurant on a hillside in Penestanan, open to the trees on three sides. Booking advised for dinner.

Long-running Monkey Forest Road garden restaurant and bakery, cooking Balinese classics since the 1980s.

Balinese and Mediterranean cooking on Jalan Raya Ubud, attached to the Casa Luna cooking school. Good breakfasts, central.

Restaurant by Lake Beratan open through the middle of the day, the practical lunch stop either side of the temple.

Terrace restaurant on the Munduk ridge looking north to the sea, a short walk from the waterfall trailheads.

All-day cafe on the Singaraja road with a broad menu, whose profits fund a local children's medical and education charity.

Buffet restaurant on the Kintamani caldera rim, built for the view straight across the lake to Batur. The standard volcano lunch stop.

Mexican kitchen off Jalan Legian — tacos and margaritas, casual and cheap for the area.

Thai kitchen down a lane off Lovina's main strip, long the most reliable dinner on the north coast.

Long-running Jimbaran seafood grill, cheaper and more local than the bayfront row. Whole fish, sambal, plastic chairs.

French bistro and bakery in central Canggu, open from breakfast through dinner.

Long-running Italian on Jalan Danau Tamblingan, as well known for the gelato counter out front as for the pizza.

Wide-menu restaurant on Jalan Raya Ubud, open all day — the safe choice when a group can't agree, and one of the oldest tables in town.

Large open-sided restaurant at Pererenan serving from early morning until late.

Restaurant of the village's original ecotourism cottages, serving Balinese food over the clove plantations. Open to non-guests.

Open restaurant terrace over the Sidemen rice terraces, with Agung behind it on a clear morning. Simple food, unbeatable seat.

Restaurant on the climb up to Bedugul, in the strawberry-growing country the area is known for. A standard stop between the south and the lakes.

Canggu's best-known vegetarian kitchen, on the road down to Batu Bolong. Big plates, long waits at breakfast.

Wood-fired pizza in Canggu, a straightforward stop between the beach and the evening.